Combining vintage features with state-of-the-art technical details, the Montblanc novelties for 2021 promise to win fans of Haute Horlogerie.

1858 Collection

1858 Geosphere Limited Edition 1858

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere is one of the main icons of the Montblanc 1858 line, with its two distinct domed rotating hemispherical globes and an in-house Worldtime complication. Inspired by the explorations of the legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner, Montblanc presents the new Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition 1858, which pays homage to his lonely five-week trip through the Gobi Desert in 2004.

Reproducing the color scheme of the rocky terrain, the watch combines a micro-sandblasted bronze case with a special engraving on the back, a bidirectional brown ceramic bezel, a beige and smoky lacquered dial and a vintage calfskin strap brown Sfumato to match.

Inspired by Reinhold Messner’s 2004 trip, the caseback reveals a unique engraving showing the famous Flaming Cliffs of the Gobi Desert, also known as the Bayanzag, which were on Messner’s route through northern Asia. Montblanc uses a special technique to highlight the Gobi desert on the back of the watch giving it a true 3-dimensional rendering, providing depth and realism as if it were a photograph.

Particular attention was paid to the dial in smoked brown to beige. A lacquered finish combined with hot pink gold-plated elements, such as applied hands and indexes, completes the overall design of this watch. For greater legibility, the day / night indicator, the cathedral-shaped hands, the indexes, the compass indications and the hemisphere globes are all coated with beige Super-LumiNova® applied by hand.

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition 1858 is equipped with the Manufacture MB 29.25 automatic caliber. This complication exhibits two hemispheres that provide an instinctive way to read different time zones. The watch features two rotating dome-shaped hemisphere globes at six and 12 o’clock, which are surrounded by a fixed scale with 24 time zones and include a pink and brown gold-plated day / night indicator (for the northern and southern hemispheres). The longitude reference meridian for both hemispheres is highlighted with a black line coated with Super-LumiNova®. In addition, a second time zone, used as an indication of local time, is located at nine o’clock and an opening date (linked to local time) is located at three o’clock.

1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100

Inspired by the 46 mm Minerva monopusher military chronograph of the 1930s, the new limited edition pays homage to the origins of the Manufacture. The watch goes beyond a simple reissue, keeping the key elements of the original model while integrating vintage touches. Equipped with the MB M16.29 manufactured monopusher chronograph caliber, the Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins features a 46 mm case made of a special bronze alloy, an “official” case back, a vintage black dial with beige elements and a matching bracelet in brown Sfumato crocodile leather.

The case of this model was made in a special bronze alloy that will obtain an attractive patina over time and is reminiscent of exploration tools from the past. An “official” caseback has been added, just like in traditional pocket watches, protecting the movement, which is adorned with engravings on both sides: outside the back of the “official” type case, it is the head of the Goddess Minerva, while the inside of the lid bears the inscription “Ré-édition du chronographe militaire Minerva des années 1930 doté d’un caliber fait main dans la pure tradition horlogère suisse” (reissue of a Minerva military chronograph from the 1930s, equipped with a caliber made by hand following the Swiss watchmaking tradition).

When opening the bottom of the “official” case, the manufactured MB M16.29 monopusher chronograph caliber, a truly reconstruction of the Minerva chronograph caliber which dates back to the beginning of the 20th century, is revealed. For this limited edition, the execution of the movement is of particular importance, as the main platinum and bridges were left in rough Maillechort (also called “German silver”), a traditional, high-quality material used in Minerva movements in earlier times.

As with the caliber of the original chronograph, the MB M16.29 features the iconic V-shaped bridge (whose design was protected in 1912), a column wheel, horizontal coupling and a traditional frequency of 18,000 A / h. In homage to historical movements, the Minerva arrow is visible at the end of the chronograph’s “blocker”.

The watch is available with a black dial, combined with contrasting rose-gold cathedral-shaped hands and numerals with beige Super-LumiNova, for greater readability at night. This legibility continues in Arabic numerals, as well as hour and minute hands, thanks to additional touches of luminescence. A reminiscence of the original chronograph is the Minerva logo on the dial, which is symmetrically positioned below the historic Montblanc logo, at 6 o’clock.

Other vintage details include bicompax counters with small seconds and minutes of the chronograph, as well as the railroad-style minute scale, which was reproduced from the original design.

1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18

Reinterpreting a historic 46 mm Minerva military chronograph from the 1930s equipped with the original caliber 19-09CH, the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 features a case produced in an innovative gold alloy called Lime Gold, a gold dial with contrasting green elements and a vintage green nubuck bracelet to match.

It is the first time that Maison has presented a model with this golden color called Lime Gold, thanks to its deep golden color that drifts to a pale yellowish green. To match the color of the new 44 mm case, the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 features a gold dial with a sunray finish. Providing legibility and vintage style, the monochromatic aesthetic is combined with contrasting green elements of different shades, such as the luminescent hour and minute hands in the shape of a cathedral, the minute scale, the central chronograph second hand, and the tachometer and telemeter scales, as well as the historic Montblanc emblem at 12 o’clock. To give a three-dimensional appearance both day and night, the Arabic numerals are entirely made of Super-LumiNova through a special patented process that encapsulates the luminescent material and creates a “mono-block” shape without contours. The golden color was chosen for the central chronograph second hand, as well as for the chronograph 30 minute and small seconds counters.

As with the original watch, the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 has a telemetric scale that rotates around the dial. The watch also has a tachymeter in the center of the dial in a collimation (snail-shaped) that allows the user to measure a time period of up to three minutes instead of one minute, as is the case with traditional chronographs.

The caseback reveals the MB M16.31 monopusher chronograph caliber MB M16.31, inspired by the original 1909 Minerva 19-09CH calibers and evolution, the 17-29, developed in the 1930s, which were used both for pocket watches as well as wristwatches. For this limited edition, the plate and bridges are made of gold-plated Maillechort (German silver). The caliber has two column wheels for the chronograph and the split complication, horizontal coupling and 50-hour power reserve. Like its predecessor, it consists of the same V-shaped bridge (the design of which was protected in 1912) and a large balance wheel with 18 screws beating at 2.5 Hz / 18,000 vph.

The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 is completed with a new vintage bracelet in green crocodile nubuck leather that has been finished with beige stitching to reinforce the vintage look. The bracelet is also equipped with a 18K Lime Gold pin buckle for the perfect finishing touch.

Heritage Collection

Heritage Pythagore Small Seconds Limited Edition 148

Montblanc unveils a new manufacture movement inspired by the historic Minerva Pythagore 48 caliber created in the 1940s. This is the Heritage Pythagore Small Seconds Limited Edition 148, two models in pink or white gold with new color dials, which bear the Minerva secret signature and are equipped with the new Manufacture caliber MB M14.08, with geometric shapes reminiscent of the historic Pythagore movement.

In the 1940s, Andrey Frey, then owner and watchmaker of Minerva, conceived a remarkable modern movement, the 48 caliber, which was used in the Pythagore. The idea was to position the bridges using mathematical proportions defined by the Golden Ratio (φ = 1.618 …). This distinctive caliber was appreciated for its straight lines and geometric angles and was the pinnacle of contemporary design in its day, equipping Minerva watches for many years.

Inspired by the shape of the original movement and meticulously following the Golden Proportion theorem, Montblanc engineers developed a brand new MB M14.08 Manufacture Caliber, which now equips the Heritage Pythagore Small Seconds Limited Edition 148 watches. The new models display all vintage codes from the collection and display the name Minerva on the dial in the form of a secret signature.

Following the historic design of the collection, the Montblanc Heritage Pythagore Small Seconds Limited Edition 148 is available in a 39 mm case in white or pink gold, curved lugs with facets and is equipped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal for a vintage look. Inspired by the historic Minerva watches from the 1940s and 1950s, special attention was paid to the dials that include technical finishes, such as a two-tone decoration, a dome shape and lacquer. The watches feature dials in vintage colors, such as blue or burnt caramel.

To complete the overall design, the watches are adorned with brown or blue vintage Sfumato crocodile leather straps. Both are limited to 148 pieces in honor of the historic Pythagore movement.

Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100

Inspired by the historic Minerva wristwatches of the 1940s and 1950s, the new Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100 features a vintage aesthetic with a new burnt-caramel dial and a rose gold case. With the patented complication developed in-house, this watch is one of the most readable with well positioned indications and the possibility to set the time through the crown both forward and backward, allowing quick adjustment of one month in less than one minute.

This model also offers a view of the realistic moon phases coated with domed rose gold and surrounded by a starry sky, which only require adjustments every 122 years. The moon phase indication is combined with a dual time zone function with a 24-hour indicator.

Reminiscent of the historic Minerva watches, the lacquered domed dial takes on a particular prominence when dressed in a warm and intense vintage Sfumato brown. The model’s face is framed by a 40 mm rose gold case and is equipped with a box-type sapphire crystal. A brown Sfumato crocodile leather bracelet completes the design.

Star Legacy Collection

Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8

The Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8 now appears in a sparkling blue color. This innovative watch is transformed, literally, by revealing two different faces. A series of complications of fine watchmaking comes into play, driven by the manufacture MB M67.60 caliber.

The transformation between the two faces is highly complex and involves more than 320 individual components, all meticulously made by hand and moving at the same time. In addition, the construction of the Exo Tourbillon alone contains more than 100 components and the entire watch consists of no less than 718 components, all traditionally handcrafted at the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret.

The mechanism is activated by a sliding lever on the side of the case (similar to a minute repeater mechanism) which is connected to a dial. It consists of a fixed part and movable shutters, which can be opened and closed according to the desired face. When the shutters are closed, the watch face displays a world time function at six o’clock in the form of a rotating globe of the northern hemisphere surrounded by a 24-hour scale and a day / night indication. At 12 o’clock, the balance wheel, coated with rhodium with a blue spring and 18 screws, beats at the traditional frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour.

When the shutters are opened, the dial reveals Montblanc’s patented one-minute Exo Tourbillon, held in place by a sapphire glass bridge, and representing the sun at 12 o’clock. This was possible thanks to the construction of the complication, which allows the balance wheel to be positioned outside the cage and below the shutters. A jumping date disc appears around the Exo Turbilhão. At six o’clock, a realistic three-dimensional moon with its exact position in the sky, as seen from Earth, constantly rotates around the globe in a gyroscopic way, exactly as it would on its journey around the Earth. The moon is set against an aventurine background that shines like a starry night sky. The astronomical complication moonphases only needs to be adjusted one day every 122 years.

The 44.8 mm case comes in white gold and features a sapphire crystal on the back, which reveals the beauty of the manual hand-finished movement MB caliber M16.68. The case also frames a three-dimensional dial built in eight different parts entirely decorated by hand using traditional watchmaking techniques. The base is in gold and has been highlighted with a guilloche pattern in some areas, and with sandblasted decoration in others. A silvery white dome at 12 o’clock, with an azure decoration in the center, houses the hour and minute counter, mirroring the three-dimensional effect of the Exo Tourbillon Suspended.

A Turbilhão é uma revista semestral, especializada na área da Alta Relojoaria e do Luxo.

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