After an intense week of Watches and Wonders, full of very interesting novelties, Turbilhão, in partnership with Boutique dos Relógios Plus, selected 12 must-see watches.
In the last week, the watch industry’s attention was concentrated on Watches & Wonders 2021, a trade show dedicated to the sector, where luxury brands present their novelties and, this year, had an entirely digital format. Despite the adverse conditions and the new challenges they face (we all face), it was not for this reason that the participating watch brands failed to present novelties worthy of registration and adapted to the situation we are experiencing.
In terms of trends, we continue to see a return to “safe”, iconic models, the use of new materials, namely sustainable, the emergence of some technical innovations and, of course, new colors of the dial, with green gaining prominence.
Now that Watches & Wonders 2021 is over, and after having seen all the novelties, Turbilhão, in partnership with Boutique dos Relógios Plus – the biggest player in the sector in Portugal – selected 12 watches that are, in our opinion, true must -have.
IWC Pilot Chronograph 41
The new Pilot Chronograph 41 comes in a 41 mm steel case with a blue or green dial and is equipped with the new EasX-CHANGE bracelet quick-change system, with options available in leather, rubber or steel.
Pilot Chronograph 41 is powered by manufacture caliber 69385, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. This mechanical movement consists of 231 parts, the chronograph function being controlled by a column wheel. A bidirectional sprocket winding system converts the activity of the watch wearer’s wrist into tension for the mainspring, providing energy to the movement efficiently and ensuring a 46-hour power reserve.
Cartier Tank Must
In terms of design, the new Cartier Tank Must combines the iconic features of two legendary models: the Tank and the Must. This line mainly emphasizes the refined minimalism of the Tank Louis Cartier. Slightly rounded corners soften the silhouette of the case, which is available in three different sizes: extra-large, large and small.
The steel models refer naturally to the first Must, through small details, such as the new proportions of the dial, the crown with a blue synthetic spinel cabochon and the traditional pin buckle. As far as movements are concerned, the extra-large version features the automatic caliber 1847 MC, with date and central seconds, while the large and small models house quartz movements.
Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel
In line with its environmental commitment through the use of environmentally friendly materials, Panerai presents the Luminor Marina eSteel watches, which use recycled metal alloys. 89g of the eSteel components are produced from recycled materials, corresponding to 58% of the total weight of the watch. Both the case and the dial of the Luminor Marina eSteel feature the new steel alloy based on recycled material. The strap and case are also made of recycled materials.
The new Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel is available in three variations, all with 44 mm cases and eSteel dials and recycled PET bracelets. The differences between them lies in the colors available.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Vacheron Constantin’s famous cushion-shaped watch, with a diagonal dial and crown in the upper right corner of the case, celebrates its 100th anniversary and returns in two models in white gold, in 40 mm and 36.5 mm cases , powered by the 4400 AS manual manufacture caliber, revealed in the sapphire crystal caseback.
Like the original, the dial of the new American 1921 has a silver tone and has a grainy texture with sloping black Arabic numerals and a black painted railroad scale. The small seconds counter at 3h is a clear departure from the original position (at 6h) in the 1921 American.
Piaget Polo Skeleton Gold
After the successful launch of the steel Polo Skeleton earlier this year, Piaget now unveils four new Polo Skeleton with gold cases: one in pink gold; another in white gold with bezel set with diamonds; and two versions in white gold entirely pavé, with cases and movements decorated with diamonds.
Here we highlight the model with 42 mm pink gold case and blue PVD dial, powered by the same extra-flat automatic movement as the steel declination. This is the Piaget 1200S1 skeletonized caliber, with a decentralized micro-rotor integrated in the mechanism, one of the thinnest automatic movements available on the market (2.4 mm).
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon
In 2021, Roger Dubuis reinterprets one of its icons – the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon – through a new design and a series of developments that include a new rose gold alloy. The new design features clear cut lines on the case and movement, creating the impression of a thinner appearance and with the Roger Dubuis star levitating freely above the barrel.
The new caliber RD512SQ features the lower cage of the tourbillon in titanium – twice as light as steel -, while the upper cage is produced in mirrored polished cobalt chrome, making the weight of the piece lighter and contributing to an optimization of the power reserve (72 hours).
Roger Dubuis Single Flying Tourbillon is available in a 42 mm case in gray DLC Titanium, Cobalt Chrome or in the new EON Gold (a more stable pink gold tint that solves the problem of discoloration over time, often caused by the addition of copper). It is a limited edition of 88 pieces per case material.
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Greubel Forsey presents, for the first time in its history, a bracelet in metal, more specifically in titanium. The model chosen to host this debut was the brand’s sports watch, the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport, first presented in 2019 as the brand’s first sports watch.
Like its predecessor, the new GMT Sport is regulated by the Greubel Forsey 24-second Tourbillon. The tourbillon cage is tilted at an angle of 25 ° and completes a full rotation every 24 seconds. Between seven and nine o’clock, a globe representative of the Earth seen from above from the North Pole rotates once every 24 hours to show the current time at all longitudes, including a day / night indication. At ten o’clock, a triangular hand displays the second time zone and a rotating dial shows the elapsed seconds. On the back of the watch, a rotating dial with the names of 24 cities displays the time in the respective time zones. This display also indicates daylight saving time and the time zones that apply it.
The big difference between the new Greubel Forsey and its predecessor lies in the integrated bracelet that now appears, for the first time, in titanium. What impresses at first sight is the thickness of the bracelet, which offers the possibility to continue the structure of the case not only on the external side of the bracelet, but also on the side. The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport, limited to 33 pieces, is delivered with an additional blue rubber strap.
1858 Geosphere Limited Edition 1858
The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere is one of the main icons of the Montblanc 1858 line, with its two distinct domed rotating hemispherical globes and an in-house Worldtimer complication. Inspired by the explorations of the legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner, Montblanc presents the new Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition 1858, which pays homage to his lonely five-week trip through the Gobi Desert in 2004.
Reproducing the color scheme of the rocky terrain, the watch combines a micro-sandblasted bronze case with a special engraving on the back, a bidirectional brown ceramic bezel, a beige and smoky lacquered dial and a vintage calfskin strap brown Sfumato to match.
Chanel presents the new Electro collection, composed of four iconic models of the brand, inspired by electronic culture and music. The Première watch is one of the legendary models that integrates, as it should be, this “electronic” collection, this time, with a more modern, minimalist and full of color approach. The triple bracelet is multicolored, while the black lacquered dial continues the aesthetic with a neon pink Chanel logo. The chain woven into the bracelet receives a black ADLC treatment and the crown is set with an onyx cabochon.
Baume & Mercier Riviera
The Riviera returns to the Baume & Mercier collection, with its distinctive twelve-sided bezel with four screws, available in two case sizes – 42 mm and 36 mm – and powered by automatic mechanical or quartz movements. The new watches also feature interchangeable straps integrated in steel or flexible materials.
The great highlight of the collection goes to the two 42 mm models equipped with the manufacture caliber Baumatic, with 5 days of power reserve and a magnetic resistance of 1500 Gauss. The Riviera Baumatic is available with a smoked blue sapphire crystal dial and integrated steel bracelet, or with a black ADLC case and smoked gray sapphire crystal dial with a flexible black bracelet. The transparency of the opaque dials allows you to admire the gears of the Baumatic caliber.
Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar
Bulgari surprises again with another world record, this time with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the thinnest in the world. After exploring the ultra-miniaturization in the fields of automatic movement, minute repeater, chronograph and tourbillon, Bulgari now presents the new Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the thinnest in the world with this complication. This new record is available in two variations: the “signature” titanium, like all world records for the brand, and a platinum version.
No less than 408 components interact within the extremely limited space provided by the slim 5.80 mm thick case of the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. The development of the caliber, with only 2.75 mm of thickness, demanded that the movement design engineers of the Manufacture in Le Sentier elaborate new solutions, such as the use of a micro rotor and the ideal use of the space between the components without reducing its dimensions.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Yellow Magic
The Hublot Big Bang Unico chronograph appears, in 2021, in a limited edition of 250 pieces in bright yellow. This model is presented in a 42 mm ceramic case and powered by the UNICO HUB1280 automatic chronograph caliber, with 72 hours of power reserve. The chronograph column wheel is visible on the dial side.
The vibrant yellow tone is extended to the rubber strap with folding clasp.