After an intense edition of Watches and Wonders, full of very interesting novelties, Turbilhão has selected 10 unmissable watches.
At the beginning of this month, the attention of the watchmaking industry was focused on Watches & Wonders 2022, a show dedicated to the sector, where luxury brands present their novelties and which, this year, returned to the physical format, once again receiving professionals from the industry at Palexpo in Geneva.
In terms of trends, the color is highlighted with many brands presenting models in different and original colors in watchmaking, while green continues to have a strong presence, the revisiting of vintage and iconic models has faded a little, although there have still been some novelties in this regard, and, in terms of materials, ceramics and titanium are assumed to be the ones of choice, while yellow gold returns to the spotlight.
Now that Watches & Wonders 2022 has ended, and after we have seen all the novelties, Turbilhão has selected 10 watches that are, in our opinion, true must-haves.
Cartier Masse Mystérieuse
The new Cartier Masse Mystérieuse surprises with innovation and magic on the dial. With this watch, the Maison has managed to contain an entire watch movement within its own self-winding rotor. The caliber 9801 MC that moves this model is the result of eight years of research and also has the same effect as a tourbillon, reducing the effects of gravity on the watch’s rate.
At 43.5mm in diameter, the case is constructed from 95% pure platinum, as highlighted by the ruby cabochon on the crown (as opposed to the sapphire used in the steel models). This model is available in a limited edition of just 30 pieces.
Hublot Square Bang Unico
Hublot presents its own interpretation of the square watch, an entirely new geometry for the brand. Inspired by the brand’s icon, Big Bang, Square Bang Unico creates a new pillar called “The Shaped Collection”. The new collection offers five different 42 mm models in three different materials: Titanium, Black Ceramic and King Gold.
IWC Pilot TOP GUN ceramic
In 2022, IWC is back to ceramics to bring to life four new Pilot TOP GUN watches, a collection of tactical pilot watches, designed in honor of the flight school of the same name.
Chronograph TOP GUN “Lake Tahoe” Edition
The TOP GUN Chronograph “Lake Tahoe” Edition is inspired, as its name implies, by the landscapes of Lake Tahoe seen by pilots when they fly over the site. This model is presented in a 44.5 mm white ceramic case, with a black dial and a white rubber strap with a folding clasp.
Powered by the in-house automatic caliber 69380, with a 46-hour power reserve and indications of hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, day and date, the “Lake Tahoe” edition is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces.
Chronograph TOP GUN “Woodland” Edition
The “Woodland” edition is inspired by the green landscapes of Woodland and is available in a 44.5 mm green ceramic case with Ceratanium pushers and crown, dark green dial and fabric-covered black rubber strap with pin buckle in Ceratanium.
Like its white-clad brother, this watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 69380, with a 46-hour power reserve and indications for hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, day and date, and is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces.
TOP GUN Chronograph 41 Ceratanium
While similar in look to its green and white counterparts, this model is nonetheless crafted from a distinct material. First released in 2019 by IWC, Ceratanium combines all the light, rigid properties of titanium with the hard, wear-free and scratch-resistant properties of ceramic.
This patented material is used in all case components, including the bezel, crown, pushers and buckle. As its name suggests, the case measures 41 mm and this watch offers the typical utilitarian specifications of the Pilot collection, such as the sapphire crystal, screw-down crown and water resistance to 100 meters. The novelty is in the partially colored sapphire crystal case that subtly exposes the caliber 69385 manufactured by IWC.
The automatic chronograph has a column wheel mechanism and stores up to 46 hours of power reserve. Completing the all-black aesthetic of the Pilot TOP GUN Chronograph 41 Ceratanium is a black rubber strap with black fabric inserts and a black dial with gray minute scale, numerals and markers. It is a stealth watch, but one that guarantees intense legibility thanks to the use of Superluminova.
Big Pilot Top Gun 43 mm
The Big Pilot Top Gun in black ceramic has been a staple of the collection since 2012. Now, IWC presents this watch for the first time in a 43 mm case. Black zirconium oxide ceramic is present on the case, while the crown and screw-down case engraved with the Top Gun logo are in titanium. The black dial features black hands, white minute scale, white markers and numerals and white luminescence. Completing the design is a green textile strap with a quick and easy strap change system.
Powering the hours, minutes and seconds functions is the in-house caliber 82100, with a Pellaton winding system and a 60-hour power reserve. The movement of the Big Pilot Top Gun is further protected by an internal soft iron cage for protection against magnetic fields.
Vacheron Constantin 222
Designed by Jörg Hysek, the reference 222 saw the light of day in 1977. At the time, the 222 was available in three sizes, the most collectable being the 37 mm “Jumbo” version. The watches featured a stylized engraving “222” on the caseback and a gold Malt cross on the lower right lug. The bezel was unusual, with notches around the circumference. Most of the 700 Jumbos manufactured featured blue or charcoal dials, with a small number having silver or white dials.
In 2022, Vacheron Constantin revisits the yellow gold Jumbo watch, with a model that draws heavily on the original, but fully adapted to the 21st century in execution. The new 222 is equipped with a gold dial with applied baton markers. The luminescence is colored green in reference to the tritium used in the original 1970s models, and the font used for “AUTOMATIC” on the lower half of the dial was borrowed from the original watches.
The biggest and perhaps most important update on this year’s 222 is the movement. It is the caliber 2455/2, which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 40 hours. The rotor is newly designed and is engraved 222 in the original font.
Piaget Limelight Gala Aventurine
The new 32 mm Limelight Gala is a discreet piece. The asymmetrical, elongated lugs are instantly recognizable, as is the Maison’s Milanese mesh bracelet. Here, the diamonds take up position on the bezel and lugs. The elegance of this Gala is matched by an in-house self-winding movement (the 26 mm model features a quartz movement).
The bezel is set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds, complemented by a brilliant aventurine dial, flecked with silver flecks, reminiscent of the starry night sky. Inside the new Limelight Gala beats the caliber 501P1, which is just 3.63 mm thick and has 40 hours of power reserve.
The Milanese mesh bracelet is designed to look like a second skin and its production, which involves weaving spirals of white gold to create the mesh, takes over 100 hours.
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
Inspired by the Mont-Blanc massif, Montblanc presents the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Data collection. The new models, which stand out for their sporty look and dial options that reflect the three-dimensional depth of the glaciers, are available in six different versions.
In common, all variants include a 41mm case, a ceramic diving-style bezel and a solid caseback with 3D illustrations. Equipped with an easy-to-handle crown, the case is water resistant to 300 meters.
The Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Data collection is available in three different dial colors – blue, green and black – representing the different shades of the glaciers. Blue ice can be found in the Mont-Blanc Sea of Ice and is formed by the incorporation of air bubbles into the ice, while green ice is found in Antarctica and is the result of the presence of microscopic snow moss particles. Black ice is formed when the ice has no inclusions or air bubbles, absorbing enough light to appear black. This one can also darken with deposits of volcanic ash in its structure.
The new models, available with interchangeable metal bracelets and rubber straps, are equipped with a movement based on the Sellita SW 300, caliber MB 24.17. This automatic movement, with hours, minutes, seconds and date functions, offers up to 38 hours of power reserve.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro
Panerai’s Submersible collection receives a new case size this year. As its name suggests, the Submersible QuarantaQuattro is now available in a 44mm diameter, in addition to the existing 47mm and 42mm sizes. The new model retains all the features of the collection, which is based on the iconic Luminor case with its distinctive shape and patented crown protection device. What sets this Submersible apart from its predecessors is the unidirectional rotating bezel.
Hidden behind the solid caseback is the automatic caliber P.900 (based on ValFleurier) with hours, minutes, small seconds, date indication and three days power reserve.
Three interpretations of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro make their debut in the collection: two steel models in a white dial/green rubber strap combination or black dial/black rubber strap combination and a third model in Carbotech with a deep blue dial and corresponding colored rubber strap.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport
When the Chronomaster Sport was launched in early 2021, it was an instant hit. A year later, Zenith is back to bet on this collection. The general specifications of the new models are basically the same as the initial steel watches: 41 mm case, El Primero 3600 movement that measures 1/10 of a second, a 60-hour power reserve and gray, anthracite and blue subdials.
Among the new releases is a Boutique Edition, with a tricolor ceramic bezel, combined with sub-dials in the three iconic colors on a silver dial with sunray decoration. The collection also receives two-tone versions, with rose gold allying itself with steel.
The line is completed with two models dressed entirely in rose gold, available with a matt white or black lacquered dial.
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.2 33 mm
This year’s release marks a new milestone for the J12. The J12 33 mm is presented for the first time with a self-winding movement, the Caliber 12.2. This caliber was also exclusively designed and developed by Kenissi and features the characteristic circular oscillating mass, which is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The watch is COSC certified and has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.
Made in two versions, the J12 Caliber 12.2 33 mm is available in black ceramic and steel or white ceramic and steel – Chanel’s two signature colors.
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales
To honor the nature that has fascinated it since 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels was inspired by the concept of a floral clock (Horologium Florae), developed by Carl Von Linné, in the book Philosophia Botanica, from 1751. In it, the Swedish botanist evokes a plan of a hypothetical garden composed of a wide variety of plants, whose flowers open and close at specific times of the day to indicate the time.
Van Cleef & Arpels adopted this principle to realize two new 38 mm creations: the Lady Arpels Heures Florales watches in white gold and the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watches in rose gold. The three-dimensional dial of these pieces offers a poetic interpretation of the passage of time, thanks to the opening and closing of 12 flowers. Seeing the time becomes a magical spectacle, as the flowers open and close, renewing the dial setting every 60 minutes.
To bring the dial to life, up to 166 elements are driven by an automatic mechanical movement with a module entirely developed by the artisans of the Maison’s watchmaking workshops in Geneva. With each passing hour, the open flowers close to make way for a new combination. The next day, the sequence of the bouquets that succeed each hour will be different.
Miniature painting petals and butterflies, carved gold branches and mother-of-pearl clouds are set off by white and yellow diamonds. The golden case back is engraved to echo the dial, while the oscillating weight – in guilloche gold and miniature painting – is visible under a sapphire crystal, itself engraved and enameled with a winged creature: a dragonfly or a butterfly.